1. First, you'll need to be very careful when removing your new Maxi-Stack from the package. The two halves of the vacu-formed tray which the Maxi-Stack III comes in have blister-snaps to hold the halves together during shipping. Slip your finger between the two halves and "pop" the blister-snaps apart then gently remove the top half. Next, carefully remove the five container inserts from the wells. Be sure to keep them (more on that later.) You may want to clip off some or all of the blister-snaps to make opening the package easier in the future. For most purposes, the clear plastic sleeve does an adequate job of holding the two halves together. You can add containers to the tray and pack them with your Maxi-Stack to make it easier to bring your car, set up and ready to run, to your club or a show. Remember to keep the container inserts in place if you do not store containers in the box too. The car should never be shipped without the container inserts in place or severe damage may result, be sure to keep these pieces just in case (see Warranty section below.)
2. Now that the car is exposed, carefully hold the A and B wells (the end wells) and slowly remove the car while pulling ever-so-slightly to maintain pressure on the articulated joints. The most common cause of breakage of these joints is excess slack (drooping) between the wells while removing the car from the box, placing it on the track or setting it back in the box. Now to get the car on the rails: set the car down on a stretch of straight track (you'll need about 26 inches) but don't worry about getting the wheels perfect yet. Once the car is in place, gently direct each truck's wheels onto the rails between your thumb and index finger. You can also use a DeLuxe Railer tool (item #990990 or 990991) to guide the wheels between the rails as you roll the car down the Railer but you will need almost twice the room. Be very careful while doing this to keep from letting too much slack form between the wells. To return your Maxi to the box simply pick it up, being sure to eliminate any slack, then place it in the tray. Carefully place the container inserts in, open side down, then replace the top half and snap it in place. You can put small containers into the container insert to keep them from damaging the car too. The trucks do not have to face the right way to close the tray.
3. The bodies (wells) of this car are die-cast metal and are sufficiently heavy that the use of container weights is not recommended. Double-stacking containers will not adversely change the center of gravity or cause instability but adding container weights will actually raise the center of gravity. Never weight the top container. The cars are tested for a minimum radius of 9-3/4" but an 11" minimum radius is recommended.
4. A few words of caution: all those beautiful etched metal details are fragile. Be careful when handling the car but if you bend a handrail you can gently bend it back. To avoid popping the glue joint, use needle nose pliers to hold the edge of the walkway and a pair of tweezers to straighten the handrail. The same technique works for a bent ladder. If you ever have to turn the car over, place five containers (either 40' or 45') on your work bench spaced for the wells then gently place the car up side down on the containers. This will protect the etched metal parts while you work on the car. We use Atlas 70 ton roller bearing trucks (with the coupler pocket cut off) and Micro-Trains 1023 couplers on the Maxi-IIIs. It is important that the stub where the coupler pocket was cut off faces away from the body-mounted MTL coupler to allow enough clearance. They can swing around during handling so check that if the end truck pops off the track. If you should have any trouble with wheels falling out, it can often be traced to the truck frame being spread or out of square. This is generally solved by taking the wheels out completely and applying gentle pressure. Hold it for about 30 seconds then put the wheels back in while being careful not to spread the truck sideframes, try flexing the axle a bit. If you prefer metal wheels, replace the stock plastic ones with your choice of 33" metal wheels with Atlas axle lengths. Please note that the trucks pins, except on the ends, are specially made and longer than a standard truck pin. We recommend against separating the wells for storage or transport. The pressure fit of the truck pin in the articulators will be degraded quickly. You also risk damaging the etched metal parts, and the articulators, each time you break up the set or re-connect it. Now for a shocker: you cannot replace the stock trucks with Micro-Trains Line trucks. Maxi-Stacks are designed for a centered bolster truck only and all Micro-Trains Line trucks have an offset bolster.
5. Prototype containers are stacked using twist-locks called Inter Box Connectors or IBC's for short. There is one at each corner on a 40' container or one at each 40' post on larger containers. 45' containers have both corner and 40' post mounting locations since they are the largest international standard (ISO) size container. The N scale equivalent of IBC's is DeLuxe Container Glue (item #990101) which is removable, reusable and non-marking. Place a small amount at each end of the container and push them together. 48' containers fit snugly in the well of a Maxi-III but you can use a very small piece of container glue at each corner to center smaller containers in the wells. For 20' containers, put a piece between the two containers if you do not double stack that well. Note that 20' containers are only used in the bottom position.
6. Warranty and repairs: we guarantee that your Maxi-Stack is free from manufacturing defects. Contact us if you believe that your car has a manufacturing defect for return information. Proof of purchase may be required. Contact us if you break your Maxi-Stack. We offer parts and repair service.
This is a precision model and is not intended for use by children under 14 years of age
140 Greenwood Ave. Suite 2A, Midland Park, NJ 07432, (201) 857-5880, Fax: (201) 857-5881